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April 23rd, 2009 in Installation tips, Spa | 2 Comments »

Spa Pumps – How to Determine What is Wrong With a Pump

Executive summary about Spa Pumps by: Dan Jung

waterway spa pump

This article applies to Balboa VS501 or VS520 spa packs and may be different for other spa packs.

Difficulty= Medium

Answer: When power is applied to the spa pack it goes into a power up sequence. If no flow is produced (and it isn’t a simple problem like a plugged filter or suction screen, closed valve) the problem is either:

a) The spa pack receptacle into which the pump is plugged does not produce 230 or 120 volts ac, or

b) 230 or 120 volts is available at the pump motor terminals but the pump motor does not rotate or

c) 230 or 120 volts is available at the pump motor terminals and the motor rotates normally but the pump is not producing any flow.

When tracing a pump problem you want to disconnect one terminal of the heater element. Above it states 230 or 120 volts. Which one applies depends on the pump motor installed and it depends on the W1 white wire jumper. If this wire is attached to a RED AC terminal the voltage should be 230 volts. If attached to a WHT AC terminal the voltage should be 120 Volts. If the service is only 120 volts then the voltage available is only 120 volts.

To check if the problem is a) requires the use of an AC Voltmeter. (2nd from bottom is common and the pin one up is low speed and top pin is high speed). If the circuit board is functioning, then you’ll get 230 or 120 volts here. If the fuse is shot (open circuited) then you will measure 120 volts (from the neutral terminal) to its left side but 0 volts on the right side. A fuse will blow for a reason, such as shorted motor or a jammed pump. If the fuse is okay and the voltage is not appearing on J23, then the circuit board needs replacement.

If a) above checked out (you did have 230 or 120 volts at the circuit board’s J23 receptacle), then there should also be 230 or 120 volts at the motor terminals. If there is 230 or 120 volts at the motor terminals and the motor is humming or turning very slowly, the low speed start capacitor is likely gone. If the motor is not spinning and there is very little or no noise, the motor is likely burned out or has an open circuit.
The check for c) we describe will also check that there is water in the pump and piping. Attach a hose to the hose bib. Open the hose bib valve so water flows out of the hose. This confirms that water is in the pump and in the piping. Turn on the power and wait for the pump motor to start turning.

How to Replace a Spa Pump

Spa owners should accept the fact that there hot tub pump will fail. Routine inspection of your hot tub pump will help prevent damages. A good spa pump will last 6-8 years so be prepared to replace your older pumps.

You should be checking for water leakage, loud noises and hot pump motors. It may be coming from the motor shaft and pump housing. Also check the pump housing for small cracks. Most people assume they need to replace the hot tub pump. However, a spa pump either works or does not work. Instead match the amp rating with your pump close to the amp rating of another pump. When looking for new pumps consider quality. Remember your old pump failed so try and buy a pump that will last even longer. All manufacturer’s make replacement pumps so don’t feel you need to replace your spa pump with the same brand name.

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